Noma, rated the world’s best restaurant, announced recently that it will close its doors to regular service in 2024, reports The New York Times. The location will become a food laboratory that will develop dishes and products for its ecommerce operation, Noma Projects.
The three-Michelin-star-winning eatery is known for transforming the fine dining experience, attracting enthusiasts from around the world.
The decision comes at a time as restaurant elites face scrutiny for worker treatment. Restaurateur René Redzepi has acknowledged the impossibility of compensating 100 employees fairly while maintaining both high standards and market prices.
“We have to completely rethink the industry,” he said. “This is simply too hard, and we have to work in a different way.”
Interviews with past and present workers at Noma revealed that 16-hour workdays were commonplace, even for unpaid workers. But those in the culinary industry were willing to accept the conditions because of the prestige that comes with the position.
With Noma Projects, Redzepi seeks to remove the “production line” aspect of cooking that can facilitate maladaptive workplace practices.
“I hope we can prove to the world that you can grow old and be creative and have fun in the industry,” he said. “Instead of hard, grueling, low-paid work under poor management conditions that wears people out.” Full Story (Subscription Required)
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Image: Noma