By Sam Gugino

PINOT NOIR IS A TEMPTRESS. It seduces us with its heady perfume—once described by legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff as “the wonderful aroma of the inside of a kid glove worn by a young woman”—and its velvety texture and rich flavor. In its youth, Pinot Noir can have an exuberant smell of raspberries, black cherries, violets and plums with touches of spice. As it evolves, leather, smoked meat and tobacco aromas emerge.

It is this seductiveness, as well as the challenge in growing Pinot Noir grapes, that has lured winemakers from across the globe. And every vintner who wants to make this wine eventually has to make a pilgrimage to Burgundy, the Mecca of Pinot Noir in central France, where it has been made since the time of Julius Caesar.

The Climate Change Affect
Burgundy’s problematic weather has historically made it a challenging place for the notoriously finicky Pinot Noir. Spring frosts can prevent vines from flowering. Inopportune rains can cause rot, while too much rain can burst the grape’s thin skins. Such factors caused frequent spikes in the quality of vintages from 1978 to 1994. However, interspersed among the clunkers were some great years, notably 1985 (rated 95 out of 100 by Wine Spectator magazine), 1978 (92) and the trifecta of 1988 (90), 1989 (93) and 1990 (98).

Since 1994, vintages have been less erratic. Jacques Lardiere, winemaker for Burgundy negociant Louis Jadot, says that there are several reasons why, including better vineyard techniques and lower yields. But the biggest, Lardiere explains, is global warming. “We’ve gained about three weeks of ripening.”

Burgundy’s two highest classifications are grand cru and premier cru. Wines in these categories can command stratospheric prices. Less expensive and often good value Burgundies lie in the next three categories—village, regional and generic (i.e. Bourgogne rouge), in descending order—especially when they are made by the same producers of grand cru or premier cru wines.

The Secrets of New World Success
Many believe Oregon’s climate mirrors that of Burgundy, which is why Pinot Noir has flourished there. As with Burgundy, recent vintages have been far more consistent, often stellar. In the past 15 years nine vintages were rated 90 or better by Wine Spectator, including the current 2005 vintage. And though warmer weather and improved vineyard management have made an impact, Alex Sokol Blosser, vice president of Sokol Blosser Winery, Dundee, Ore., says there is more to it. “Better site and clonal selection have also been a big deal,” he notes. 

Grape clones are natural mutations of original or “mother” plants (as opposed to hybrids, which are created under laboratory conditions). Clones highlight different characteristics, such as flavor profiles. Winemakers are constantly experimenting to find out what Pinot Noir clones do best in their areas. Wädenswil and Pommard Pinot Noir clones were used for years in California and Oregon. But many producers have been switching to the Dijon clone, which has smaller berries for more intense flavor. 

In fact, the new Dijon clones that Sokol Blosser and many other U.S. Pinot Noir producers use ripen so well that care has to be taken to prevent grapes from ripening too much, lest they lose the vibrant acidity for which Oregon Pinot Noirs are known. Still, says Sokol Blosser, “Oregon Pinots have more acidity than even the cooler areas of California, like the Russian River.”

Though initially thought to be too warm for Pinot Noir, better site and clone selection have helped California Pinot Noirs to improve tremendously. “Cabs from 15 years ago are marginally better today. But with Pinot, the difference is night and day,” says Pat Henderson, winemaker at Kenwood Winery in Sonoma.

With the Russian River Valley, Carneros and Sonoma Coast areas leading the way, Sonoma County boasts more diverse locales for Pinot Noir than any other region in California. Indeed, Merry Edwards, whose eponymous Pinot Noirs are among California’s best, explains the Sonoma and Burgundy connection by noting that Burgundy wines are “similar to the varied expressions found in the microclimates within our own Russian River Valley. We have some fine locally recognized ‘sub-regions’ that sweep a broader stroke. And then there are individual sites within those areas.”

Site-Specific Influences
Site or place, which includes soil, climate, topography and other factors such as history and culture, is what makes up terroir. It is why wine from one small plot of land may taste differently from another wine made from grapes grown nearby. But with Pinot, individual sites, specific vineyards, even patches within those vineyards are critically important. “Pinot Noir is influenced by site more than any variety I’ve worked with in 30 years,” says George Bursick, winemaker for J Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg, Calif. In addition, says Henderson, “Pinot Noir is so delicate it responds better to small plots, which historically Burgundy has had.”

Though terroir encompasses many aspects, it is the rich and varied soil of Burgundy that most distinguishes its Pinot Noir. Bursick believes that in California, it is the weather that makes Pinot Noir distinctive. “We’re seeing different microclimates overshadowing soil,” he says. “We’re finding cool areas where we never expected grapes to grow, let alone Pinot Noir.”

When it comes to cool areas for Pinot Noir, no region tops the Santa Rita Hills in the western part of the Santa Ynez Valley. This gives Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noirs a bracing acidity. “It’s so cold that the acidity is almost a problem,” says Alan Phillips, winemaker for Foley Estates Vineyard & Winery, Lompoc, Calif. “Wines can get too edgy, so you have to watch it.”

Embracing the Differences
Comparisons of California, Oregon and Burgundy Pinot Noirs are inevitable. One of the classic smells of Burgundy Pinot Noir is that of a barnyard, a rich, sometimes heady, gaminess. Some winemakers think it comes from brettanomyces (“brett” for short), a spoilage yeast found on grapes and in wineries that is more common in French wines than New World wines. But though the new Dijon Pinot Noir clones now used in California and Oregon provide a hint of the barnyard, most winemakers in those states would just as soon not have it.  

Tastewise, “French Pinots are leaner and lower in alcohol. California has more fruit and some are over the top in alcohol,” says Rick Sayre, director of winemaking for Healdsburg’s Rodney Strong Vineyards. “French Pinots are made to bottle age, while American Pinots are meant to be drunk young.” n

Sam Gugino is a columnist for Wine Spectator and can be reached at www.samcooks.com.